NAPLES.

When booking our Europe trip, Naples was in the middle of our priority list of places to visit- we knew the coastline was beautiful and the history of Vesuvius and Pompei really interested us, however we were unsure of whether to fit it into this trip or wait until we had more time and money. We ended up swayed by the cheap flights and booked 3 nights at Giovanni’s Home, near the centre of Naples and it ended up being one of our favourite cities of the trip. So much so, in fact, that we will be booking a return trip to explore more. Our flights ended up being delayed so our time was cut shorter meaning we only had 2 full days in the city. Upon arrival, a bowl of pasta was waiting for us and after filling our bellies, Giovanni began his welcome chat, explaining the do’s and dont’s of the area- his passion for the city clear.

Day 1

We decided to take advantage of Giovanni’s knowledge and map and began the walking tour that he had recommended. This covered everything that we had planned to see and more! The short walk took us past the main church in the city; Naples Cathedral, along a small street which sold Christmas decorations (in August!) and other trinkets, through the Piazza del Gesù Nuovo and to the Piazza Municipio. We stopped along the way to take some photos and admire the architecture.

We then continued past Castel Nuovo and onto Piazza del Plebiscito. A grand square enclosed by the Grand Palace on one side and the church of San Francesco di Paola. The last monument that we visited was Ovo Castle on the coastline.

After completing Giovanni’s walk, we then strolled along the coastline heading towards a viewpoint that he had recommended. This took around an hour from Ovo Castle but with the sun shining, a slight breeze and the panoramic views of the colourful buildings, this time soon passed.

The view was more than worth it when we arrived. Stunning views of Naples and Mount Vesuvius in the background was the cherry on top.

Day 2

As our only other full day in Naples, we were toying between heading to Pompei or taking the train further to Sorrento and along the Amalfi Coast. We had originally planned to try and do both but after seeing how clear the skies were, we settled on Pompei and Vesuvius, knowing that with no clouds in our way, we would have a good view from the top of the volcano.

We rose bright and early in time to catch the 8:13 train from Naples to Pompei Scavi. We arrived shortly after 8:45am and made our way to the ticket booth. The early start really paid off as there was nobody in front of us in the queue! As we began to walk around the city, we discovered that the place was not yet full of tourists and had a somewhat calm aura to it. We found ourselves walking down streets and not seeing another soul. We loosely followed the free walking map that we had picked up at the train station, picking out key buildings that we wanted to see. We made sure to visit the Amphitheatre, Grand Palestra, the Basilica and other iconic pieces such as statues. We were especially interested in seeing the mummified bodies that are scattered around the area. The dried lava somewhat preserving the bodies which were then cast during excavation. You can truly see the terror in their last moments. Look at our gallery below.

After spending a few hours roaming the streets, we decided to move onto Vesuvius. We could still see the skies surrounding the summit were clear so made our way towards the exit and back to the station. With two options of buses, a cheaper local bus for €3.10 or more of a coach with guaranteed seat for €5, we opted for the more expensive option (for once!). The bus journey to 1000m took around 40 minutes and we had around an hour and 45 minutes free time before the return journey. We paid our entrance to the national park- €10 and began the hike. A 25-30 minute uphill walk with dusty terrain but there are regular sections with benches and plenty of photo opportunities. Upon reaching the top, the trail continues around the crater slightly, some sections you can still see the smoke coming through the rocks.

To conclude, we are glad we changed our plans to include Vesuvius. There is so much history here and upon seeing the beauty of the mountain and surrounding areas, it is hard to believe the damage that it is capable of. The preservation of Pompei is very well executed, the decoration is intricate and crumbling exterior, broken statues, mummified bodies and mass of pottery show the extent and pain of what happened here in 79AD.

Given more time in Naples, we would have liked to do a day trip (at a minimum) around Sorrento, Positano and the Amalfi Coast but this will have to stay on our bucket list for now.

Tips and costs..

• We stayed at Giovanni’s Home, near the Museo and Cavour stops on the metro. Very good value for money and he is so welcoming. His knowledge about Naples is exquisite and will often cook pasta or pizza for dinner!
• There is a company called Alibus which connects the airport to both central station and the port- this costs €5 per person.
• As expected in Italy, eating out is cheap, you can expect to find a pizza or pasta for under €5.
• A single on the metro is around €1.30 and there are stations all around the city. Be sure to stamp your ticket before boarding the train.
• Our train from central station to Pompei Scavi was €2.80 per person, each way. This takes around 30 minutes.
• A train from Naples to Sorrento is around €3.60 and takes approximately an hour.
• Entry to Pompei is €15 unless you are aged 18-24 and an EU citizen in which case it will be €2. Be sure to take ID if you fall into this category. The audio guide was €13 for two.
• Make sure you take advantage of the free map!
• The local bus to Vesuvius is €3.10 each way but you are not guaranteed a seat. The coach was €5 each way but guarantees your return. Check out the time table at the Pompei Scavi train station.
• Entry to the national park at Vesuvius is €10 each, you can buy this at the top (or on the coach if you choose that option). Cash is easier for payment- we needed to pay on card and had to wait for 20 minutes for this to be possible.
• Ensure to take plenty of water when visiting Pompei and Vesuvius, especially on a hot day. There is the occasional water fountain to fill your bottle onsite in Pompei.